Dinamico: Keeping It Simple

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Looking for a casual Italian eatery in Dubai? You don’t have to look far. They dot the landscape like trees in a park, each one promising authentic Italian flavors and a journey for the taste buds that will transport you to the heart of Florence. Dinamico, located on the Concourse level of the Sky Gardens in DIFC, doesn’t make any such lofty claims. They aim to serve simple but flavorful Italian food in a very relaxed, café style setting.

Set apart from the hustle and bustle of the main DIFC towers and the high-profile restaurants therein, Dinamico carves out a relatively quiet little space, with an open terrace area that overlooks the Sheikh Zayed Road skyline. Given the pleasant weather (and the fact that the terrace is in the shade) I take a seat outdoors.

After the usual bread basket (served with a nice sun-dried tomato spread) to snack on before the meal, I move on to my starter. Dinamico’s beetroot salad, a staple of many a European restaurant or café in town, is a pleasant start. Cubes of red and golden beetroot are joined by their old companion goat’s cheese on a bed of rocket, topped off with pumpkin seeds, which add a nice crunchy element to the dish.

To follow, there’s Mezzini Paccheri, paccheri pasta in tomato sauce with eggplant, cherry tomatoes and burrata. The tangy tomatoes play off the creamy burrata quite well, though the pasta is a bit shy of al dente, making it slightly chewy. From Dinamico’s pizza selection, I try the Alba, with a simple topping of porcini mushrooms, mascarpone and truffle cream. Rich, earthy truffle flavor permeates the whole dish, and the porcinis reinforce that. I just wish the mascarpone had been better incorporated, instead of the haphazard dollops that are scattered over the pizza.

While it’s hard to resist a good tiramisu, I opt to go in a less predictable direction for dessert and try the Cannoli alla Siciliana. The cannoli shell is crisp, with a lovely orange ricotta filling, with chopped pistachios and chocolate shavings sprinkled on the ends. It’s a messy dessert (my server specifically mentions it’s meant to be eaten by hand, so they don’t serve cutlery with it unless requested) but it’s very satisfying, especially with a cup of coffee.

Dinamico’s fare is uncomplicated and focused on strong, simple flavors. If you’re in the DIFC area and looking for a relaxing lunch, Dinamico is certainly a welcome change from the flurry of activity in the main district, and well worth checking out.

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