Rang Mahal at the JW Marriot Marquis | Dubai

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Atul Kochhar has come to be one of the most acclaimed chefs in Britain when it comes to Indian cuisine. The Michelin-starred chef is known for his love of British ingredients to craft a more innovative take on Indian cuisine. Having opened several restaurants around the United Kingdom over the years, he’s made his mark in Dubai with Rang Mahal at the JW Marriott Marquis, which opened two years ago.

As we enter the restaurant, the hostess guides us along a long, dark hallway. On one side is a bar and lounge, while semi-circular private booths line the other wall. The entire area is very dimly lit, resembling a club more than a restaurant. We emerge from here into the main dining room, also very dark with soft orange lighting and large windows providing a view of the creek. Wide patterned columns loom over the space and two giant murals stare down at us. An open kitchen is tucked away in the back. I’ve heard good things about the ambience here, but I find it somewhat unsettling.

Our server is quite cheerful, which stands out all the more against the dreary environment. She takes our order and starts us off with an amuse-bouche of corn dressed in passion fruit dressing with micro herbs. The corn is sweet, there is a little tartness in the passion fruit and the herbs bring a slightly savory element to the flavor. It’s a very refreshing little dish.

The appetizer is Bhuna Baingan Aur Simla Mirch, burrata served on a bed of roasted eggplant and bell peppers. On the side is a little bowl of sea salt mixed with fenugreek and cumin. The burrata is of good quality and the eggplant’s flavor infuses nicely into the dish, but it’s a bit too salty for my liking. The fenugreek and cumin complement the other flavors quite well. I would have preferred if that spice mix had been served without the sea salt, as it only adds more saltiness.

One of the main courses listed on the menu is the Farmer’s Green, which changes daily. Intrigued, we ask about the green of the day and are informed that it’s Bhindi Masala. Surprisingly, I haven’t come across many okra dishes in any of the other Indian restaurants that I’ve reviewed. It’s a simple, mildly spiced dish that allows the okra’s flavor to shine through without any other elements to distract from it. The second main dish is Subz Musallam, a trio of potato, bell pepper and cottage cheese stuffed with vegetables in a creamy sauce. The main components of the dish taste quite nice, but the sauce is very rich and has a slightly sour undertone running through it.

The meal is accompanied by Forest Officer’s Pulao, which is a very standard mixed vegetable pulao, and Cheese Naan, which is also quite decent. All the rice and bread on the menu are fairly standard, which isn’t really a bad thing, as it keeps the focus on the main dishes.

Dessert proves to be on a different level compared to the previous courses. Chocolate Chaklate consists of three rectangular cubes of dark chocolate ganache topped with dark chocolate discs and gold leaf, while the Peanut Butter Tube is a cigar-shaped peanut butter parfait wrapped in a ring of dark chocolate and served with ginger fennel ice cream and a jaggery crumble. Both desserts are delicious, though the first one is really just a fancy, artfully plated ganache. The peanut butter dessert combines a playful display with an interesting flavor and texture combination and ends the meal on a high note.

The main courses at Rang Mahal don’t vary too much from the traditionally made dishes I’ve had growing up, and I’m not sure if I’d come back here. While I appreciate the overall simplicity of the meal, it’s something I can easily enjoy a simple meal in a much more casual and better lit venue. A greater sense of experimentation is seen in the desserts, which are truly worth recommending.

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