Handi: Potful of Flavor

share Handi: Potful of Flavor on social media channels

Share this:

The Taj Palace Hotel has been part of Deira’s hospitality landscape for many years, and while recent hotel developments have overshadowed it somewhat, it’s still maintained its presence. Late last year, the hotel went through a rebranding process and now operates as the Jood Palace Hotel, swapping its Indian-themed ambiance for a more Middle Eastern concept. The Indian touch now rests with Handi, the hotel’s most popular restaurant.

Handi’s décor is all about beige and gold tones, which can end up feeling a bit lifeless, in spite of the little touches of red and blue in the tablecloths. The real personality of the restaurant comes through courtesy of the semi-open kitchen and the live music. As the restaurant isn’t very crowded that evening, there’s a good level of interaction between the performers and their audience, which keeps the evening moving at a brisk pace.
Despite its five-star trappings, Handi isn’t licensed. It’s not that big of a concern, as North Indian food is best enjoyed with a cool glass of Mango Lassi. Needless to say, I start off my meal with that. Unlike some Indian restaurants I’ve been too in recent months where a few vegetarian dishes stood out for sure, I actually had to get some help with my order here as there is too much to choose from!

For the appetizer, I have Subz Anjeer ki Seekh, a kebab consisting of chopped mixed vegetables and figs. The vegetarian seekh kebab is a standard dish at any Indian restaurant, but the addition of figs in this version gives the dish a very pleasant sweetness.

The main dishes consist of two curries and a black daal. The Dal E Handi (a chef’s specialty of course) is as expected, a comforting black lentil dish with a nice rich texture. This particular version has a dollop of ghee (clarified butter) on top that ups the indulgence of the dish as it slowly melts into it.

Another signature dish is Subz E Handi, a mixture of spring onions, baby corn and green peppers stir-fried in a spicy gravy. It has a bold spicy flavor that’s just right for me, but could be overpowering for a milder palate. I was asked about my spice preference beforehand though, so they can adjust it accordingly. The last curry is Khushrang Paneer, a newer addition to the menu. It consists of cottage cheese cooked in a rich sauce that has layers of tang and sweetness to it.
These are accompanied by some flatbreads and Chilman Subz E Bahar, a mixed vegetable biryani with aromatic spices, served the traditional way with a ‘lid’ made of dough that seals in the flavors.

It’s a very rich meal, thanks to the copious use of ghee, and the soothing music adds to my growing sense of drowsiness. Still, there’s always just a little room for dessert, so I order one of my favorites, Shahi Tukda. This traditional North Indian bread pudding is indulgently creamy, complemented by chopped pistachios.

If you happen to be in the Deira area, Handi is a pleasant and comfortable getaway for some authentic Indian food. It's fairly quiet (other than the music) in the early evenings, but the restaurant was starting to get busy when I was leaving, and I’m sure the vibe perks up considerably later on. The food is quite rich though, so order light or expect a food coma!

share Handi: Potful of Flavor on social media channels

Share this: