A House of Curry by the Beach | Dubai

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I take a sip from my glass of Indian Summer, savoring its lemony zing, sharpened further by the smokiness of powdered cumin. It’s a refreshing antidote to the climbing temperature. It’s also the perfect drink to have while sitting by the beach, so it’s a good thing that’s exactly where I am.

Jumeirah Beach Residence has seen a lot of re-development over the past year and a half, transforming itself into a boardwalk where beachgoers can get in a little shopping or grab a quick bite to eat without having to wander too far. One of the eateries in this new expansion is House of Curry, who invited us over for lunch to sample their wares.  Nonetheless, the opinions expressed are genuine.

They certainly deserve points for atmosphere. While the outside is the same kind of glass-walled box common to the area, the interior resembles the courtyard of an Indian palatial home. Two banyan trees stand in the center, surrounded by sacks of spices and an old bicycle. Behind them, a protruding wall with ornate shuttered windows, paintings from India's Mughal era and hanging lanterns. It’s enough to pull me into a different time and place. Until I notice the open window in the center, framing a recreation of the Mona Lisa. In a sari. That’s a fun way to begin lunch.

My companions and I peruse the menu, deciding what to order. The manager helpfully suggests a small portion of some of their best dishes, and we concur. We end up biting off more than we can chew, but it’s worth it for a satisfying meal. Be warned, though, the food’s definitely on the heavy side.

The meal kicks off with an assortment of appetizers and kebabs, brought in on a silver platter covered with a banana leaf, adding a coastal feel that gels with the beachside location. The standout dish among them is the Hot & Spicy Potatoes, fried potato cubes with a bright red spice mix that has a hint of East Asia flowing through it.

Mushrooms stuffed with a spiced cheese mixture are addictively good, and Paneer Koliwada, cubes of cottage cheese fried in a light batter coating, is an interesting variation on the famous Fish Koliwada. Mixed pakoras, vegetable fritters commonly served as snacks and street food, are lighter and less greasy than their street food counterparts, but otherwise unremarkable. Paneer Tikka, grilled cottage cheese cubes, and Saundhe Aloo, grilled baby potatoes with a spice and herb rub and a splash of lime juice, have a nice zesty flavor.

The main courses arrive in small copper vessels, accompanied by baskets of Indian breads, including rumali roti (literally ‘handkerchief bread’), phulkas (breads prepared directly on the
fire so that they puff up) and the standard naans. The first item we try is Daal Makhani, a creamy black lentil dish that is, to me, the highlight of any meal at an Indian restaurant. House of Curry does not disappoint with theirs. The manager recommends having it with garlic naan, which proves to be solid advice.

Palak Paneer, creamed spinach with cottage cheese, is flavorful, but a bit too mild. Vegetable Makhanwala, mixed vegetables in a tomato-based sauce, doesn’t work for me. The acidity from the tomatoes is too strong, souring the taste of the dish. On the other hand, Mirch ka Salan, a delicacy from the Indian state of Hyderabad comprising roasted chilies in an aromatic tamarind gravy, strikes a careful balance between the sour tamarind and spicy chilies. Mushroom, Paneer & Cheese Bhurji, essentially a spiced fondue with minced mushrooms and paneer, tastes decent, but is an overdose of dairy products.

After the main course, we take another breather. I look around and another picture catches my eye, a recreation of ‘Son of Man’, the famous painting of a man in a bowler hat and suit, his face covered by an apple; the man in this case sports a turban.

At last, we order dessert, opting for hand-churned ice-cream and kulfi. While the kulfi is creamy but forgettable, the ice cream selection has a few surprises. Past the usual options of chocolate and vanilla are some less conventional picks. Rose has a nice subtle flavor, enhanced by bits of rose petals. Chili carries a strong heat, but doesn’t work as a dessert. It would be better as a sort of chilled dip for the naans or papadum.

Last and most interesting of all is Mukhwas, a mouth freshener composed of various aromatic seeds like fennel and anise that is typically eaten after Indian meals. It works amazingly well as an ice cream, with a bold licorice-like flavor that makes it the winner of the desserts.

With its fun, quirky environment and myriad curry and snack options, House of Curry is great for a leisurely meal. The food is very rich, though, and even a small portion can fill you up fast, so be sure to bring some friends. And if you do find yourself too stuffed to move, just sit back, have a sip of Indian Summer and enjoy the beachside view.

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